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Jim's Repair/Jim's Tractors
16330 Goodwin Ave.
Hastings, MN 55033
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Jim and Isaac went to their first pull this summer in
Goodhue, Minnesota. Isaac won 2nd place with the John Deere
112 in the 1100 lb class and 3rd place in the 1300 lb class with the
little Gravely. Jim won 1st in the 1100 lb class and 1300 lb
class.
We sold our Mini Rod, Banana (because it was yellow). It was a
little hard to let it go. Got a note from the new owner of
Banana and he just loves it. If you'd like to see a picture of
Banana there is one on the
home page. The other Mini Rod
"Lone Wolf", owned by our next door neighbor and tractor puller
Brian Hoffman, just went to Michigan. Brian and Lone Wolf got
1st place almost every time they pulled. We have another
garden tractor puller for sale, we
are thinning our herd of Deere's.Our newest
driver, Isaac Barden is our grandson and a motor head like his dad
and grandpa. Isaac drove in the 1100 lb class with a John
Deere 112 powered by a 10 HP diesel engine. He drove the
little Gravely this year in the 1300 lb class too. Isaac won
1st place in his class at the Rivertown Days garden tractor pull in
Hastings MN
and at 3 other garden tractor pulls in 2005. He has 6
trophies proudly displayed on his Mom's mantle. Isaac did
pretty well for the 2005 season and is pulling in some other classes
this year with some of Jim's garden tractor pullers. He is a
quick learner and likes working on the tractors out in the shop.
Looking for suitcase weights and weight
brackets?
Garden Tractor pulling questions and answers: |
Isaac and his John Deere 112
Pulled in the 1100 lb. Class
and won 2nd place.
Jim won 1st place, it's hard to compete against Grandpa.
The 112 has a
10 HP Diesel Engine |
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Jim and the John Deere 332
It won 1st place in Goodhue
in the 1300 lb class.
Has a 20 HP Yanmar Engine
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Garden Tractor Puller for sale: Jim is selling this puller.
It did very well getting 2nd place for 2005
Details:
$2800 |
Jim (Kaz) and the
John Deere
317
Jim got 1st place in Goodhue
Hopped up Kawasaki
18 HP OHV
Water Cooled Engine
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Jim and the Gravely
Pulled in 1300 lb class
Rear mounted 20 HP
Kohler engine - Jim won 2nd place and Isaac won 3rd place. Jim got
1st place with the JD 332. We've been pulling this one since
the early 1990's |
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Jim and the old style
John Deere 112
Pulls in the 950 lb.
Stock Altered Class
14 HP 1 Cylinder
Kohler Engine |
The load ready to leave for Sauk Center MN |
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Jim went to his
first garden tractor pull in 1973
at the Washington County fair in Minnesota. He pulled with the
John Deere 140 that we still use today. His next garden
tractor pull was in Prescott Wisconsin in 1973. He brought our
John Deere 140 and a homebuilt little car/tractor Jim and his dad
built when he was in his teens. He won with both and was
hooked after that.
If you want to build a garden tractor pulling tractor of your
own, give us a call:
1-800-618-8738. Or email us:
jim@jimsrepairjimstractors.com.
Jim has the
engine, tires,
weights, and advise you need.
Or maybe you would like to give us some advise! |
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Q: I got a free Sears Custom 10Xl, it is an
older model, probably a 1960's. I am wondering if this was a good
puller. It has a 3 speed transmission and a 2 speed rear end but it
is belt driven because the belt runs from a pulley on the side of
the engine to the rear end. Would this make it not a good puller?
A: This
tractor is a good puller. Don’t worry about it being a belt drive as
that is really no problem.
Q: You mention a HD transmission in your 110 puller. What does
that amount to?
A: Yes I took
those rear ends or transaxles apart and put in a heavy duty limited
slip rear end.
Q: I inherited a 1975 Gravely 816s riding tractor. I just had
the transmission rebuilt as well as fixed anything else that wasn't
working. I spent far more money than I should have, but now have a
rugged "little" garden tractor that is ready for work. They have a
garden tractor pull here in August during the Fair and I want to
enter the Gravely. I don't know any of the rules at this time but I
am only interested in stock...nothing souped up, and I think they do
have an event for that. I haven't ever been to a tractor pull (lots
of horse pulls though). This gravely has a Briggs and Stratton 16 hp
engine (rear mounted), 4 forward speeds and a hi and lo range. Also
has wheel weights on the rear wheels. How much weight should I try
to pull without damaging the machine, what "technique" would you
recommend, ie. is 1st gear, lo range the best or is it better to use
a higher gear (can't shift it once it is moving), do you give it
full throttle before engaging the transmission, or do you rev it up
gradually as you are dragging, etc.? Any advice you can give me is
greatly appreciated.
A: Put the
transmission in the high side on your 2 speed rear end. Shift the
transmission into second gear. Open your throttle lever wide open.
When it is time to take off, then push your clutch lever forward,
and watch yourself come into first place. Remember if you start
running out of power, do not pull the clutch back. Let it go until
you kill the engine. Let me know how things went.
Q: I see that you have used a 10 diesel in a John Deere. I have
a 129 cub that I am going to pull in a hydro only class and I am
thinking of using the diesel engine.
A: The main
thing with a hydro is to listen to your engine and operate the hydro
with a nice even change.
Q: I have been debating over the past year about building a
tractor for pulling and had a few questions. I have a Craftsman 2
with a 16 HP twin Kohler engine and a 5 speed transmission. I was
wondering if this would be a worthwhile tractor to make into a
pulling tractor? If so, what gear would I pull in and what RPM would
I set the engine at? I also have my eye on a Jacobson but I don't
know much about it except that it is big with a 2 speed rear end. If
I am able to get the Jacobson, I would like to turn both of them
into pulling tractors. I would like to pull at our local fair but I
have no idea what class the Craftsman would even pull in?
A: A Sears
tractor would be a very good puller. The Jacobson is good also but
with hydrostatic transmissions it takes a while to learn how to
drive them. Pull in third depending on the weight class you are in.
You will have to set the engine RPMs according to a rules of the
group you are pulling with.
Q: I am thinking about entering my completely stock John
Deere 112 garden tractor in a stock pulling class in one week. I've
never done it before and would like to know a little before I go.
Can you give me some hints and tips to get the tractor ready? And
also maybe how to pull it. What gear to pull it in and should I use
the variable speed lever at all? I have a 10 HP Kohler engine and
the 4 speed transmission and like I said, everything is completely
stock. Do I need wheelie bars and a kill switch? I'm really not sure
what to expect.
A:
First find out the rule on the hitch height. Get it set up to the
maximum specified height. Put about 6 lbs in the rear tires. Adjust
our engine RPM's up to 4000 or if they let you run wide open, that
would be better yet. You need to talk to whoever you are pulling
with to find out if you need wheelie bars and a kill switch for
safety. Pull the tractor in 3rd gear and put your variable speed
lever all the way forward. Then let the clutch out and keep
traveling until you hear the engine pulling down a good amount.
Then pull the variable speed lever back 1 notch and be listening to
the engine. You maybe have to hurry up and pull it back another
notch as you are traveling farther down the track. Do not move it
back any more than 1 notch at a time when under a load or the belt
may slip. This should take you into a pretty good position of
winning if you don't slip out of gear and lose the pull completely.
Of course, I'm really not a pulling expert, but that's my advise
anyways. Be careful, last fall I was building a puller that didn't
have the wheelie bars on it yet and it went over backwards on me and
pinned me down. I didn't get hurt too bad but I was hurting.
Q: I really want to leave the tractor as close to stock
as possible. I don't want to make it a full time pull tractor. Is
there any way of making a temporary wheelie bar without drilling or
welding?
A: You can just bolt the wheelie
bar to the hitch and you would not have to weld it on the tractor.
Our club required the wheelie bar.
Q: I was wondering how I would start to build my own garden
tractor puller? I have a Tractor but I need some assistance on where
to go next.
A: The first
thing you need to do is decide what class you want to pull in with
whatever garden tractor pulling association you have in your area.
You would need to talk to them and get their rules for the class you
want to pull in, and then build a tractor for that class.
Q: I am building a pulling rod and want to use a 440 cc Skidoo
motor. I would like to use hydrostatic drive so I am looking for a
drive that would handle 14000 RPM's. I'm looking for the
transmission and rear end. Do you think it would work? My other
option is to use a 750 cc Honda bike motor which has a transmission
already. Could I link it to a hydrostatic drive?
A: I like my
hydros too but the hydro idea will not work or stay together with
those high of RPM's. I have run hydros at 5000 to 6000 RPM's and it
would not stay together.
Q: I have and old Roper riding tractor and a 14 year old son
wanting me to build a puller and I need some advice. I also have a
Geo 3 cylinder engine and was thinking of exactly what you did with
your
John Deere 140. The roper has a 3
speed with a hi and low trans hooked directly to the rear end which
looks like it would be pretty tuff but it is belt driven and I was
wondering if it would be possible to somehow be able to hook the two
together with a clutch and pulley off of the engine with a belt to
the trans.
A: If I
remember correctly your belt pulley off of the engine is on the
right side of your frame rail. It would probably be pretty hard to
mount that engine cross ways to your frame rails as that engine is
very long.
Q: I have an opportunity to purchase either an MTD garden
tractor with a Hydrostatic transmission and a 2 cylinder 18 hp
Briggs and Stratton engine or a Jacobsen with hydrostatic
transmission and a 16 hp Kohler. Up until I saw your response
concerning the use of a Hydrostatic Transmission I was under the
impression that only Cub Cadets were suitable for this sport.
A: I would
get that Jacobsen if I were you. If I am not mistaken that Jacobsen
also has a 2 speed rear end in it. In my opinion only pulling with
Cub Cadets is a myth. I've won with all different models and gotten
skunked with all different models.
Q: I have a 1860 Cub Cadet hydrostatic drive garden tractor. It
quit pulling, I changed the filter and fluid in it but that did not
help. Can the hydro pump be rebuilt? I'm looking to find out if any
thing can be done to this pump to beef it up so that I may use it in
my pulling lawn mower. My friends says it won't hold up in my
puller.
A: If this has the same transmission as
the 782 Cub Cadet, which is a very good transmission,
I will overhaul it
for you and send it back to you. This transmission will hold up fine
in tractor pulling. I have used that Sundstrand hydro for pulling
for years and it does not break down for me.
Q: Will a John Deere rear end hold up to a 18 Magnum
Kohler at stock RPM's?
A: I have already used that rear
end running up to 34 HP and it did O.K. but once in a while we did
twist off axles. |
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Details on
the garden tractor puller for sale: |
This is the early 1960's first John
Deere garden tractor built. This unit has a heavy duty 4 speed
transmission that works great in tractor pulling. This garden
tractor puller has done very well, it won 2nd place for the entire
year. It has a non stock camshaft in it and is timed
different. The ignition points we are using are the Chevrolet
type so can be adjusted accurately. The connecting rod is
converted to the insert type instead of the old Kohler style.
It has a billet built flywheel and has an explosion shield built
over the flywheel. The cylinder head has been planed and is
cut at a slight angle. There is an electric fan mounted on the
engine to make it run cooler. I have a lot of detailed design
put into my pulling hitch. You can adjust the height within
1/8 of an inch. An electric kill switch is mounted on the back
of the tractor puller for the safety shut down. The wheelie
bars are adjustable for loading at 1/2 inch intervals of height
changes. I designed the weight brackets so the tractor puller
can be set up for perfect balance. There is a bracket located
on the front of the tractor's belly and also at the rear of the
tractor. This wild engine is set up to run up to 7000 RPM.
The engine started out at a 14 horsepower. Get this garden
tractor puller and you will running at the top of the class.
We put the wheels on the rear of the wheelie bars instead of the
obsolete skid plates that plow the ground as you travel. This
puller also has a limited slip rear end system in it. I did
not take the differential and weld the gears together, the cheap way
out. It was done the right (and expensive) way. I know I
will not come close to recovering all the money that went into this
garden tractor puller but it should be worth at least $4200, which
is what I have invested in the engine. We are selling it for
$2800. I have aluminum wheels, tires, and
suitcase weights available.
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