We carry a large
selection of new and used parts and have a reliable
service department. We keep a good supply of John Deere
Briggs and Stratton parts.
Sundstrand hydro transmission
rebuilding is available.
We have a good belt inventory and just added a larger selection.
Have you ever wanted to finish mowing your lawn on a Saturday
evening but the belt just broke? Drop by and we will be able
to help. We also carry tires and batteries for
Lawn and Garden Equipment.
Shipping can be arranged.
Parts, and Repair Questions and Answers
Turf Pro 31X12.00/15 garden tractor tires and wheels. New -
Mule drive guard
This guard is more than 2 times thicker than the factory part.
For John Deere models
Garden Tractor Seat-$90
L100, Sabre L1742, Sabre 14.542GS Transaxles -
John Deere Gas Gauge
Fuel Gauge and Gas Cap-For John Deere Model 110 - 112 - 140 garden tractors.
Still in the original John Deere box $38
400X8 Tri Rib Tire $60 each
70 lb cast iron -$150-pair
Aluminum wheels, hub & cap $70
Automotive and Tractor Belts
41 lbs each
480-8 2 tires are strapped together $30 each
only-no tire $67 each, Tire is $60 each
$120 per tire, Wheel not included
If you have one hand on a hydro lever you can steer with the other
Steering Wheel Knob
We just love these steering wheel knobs, they make maneuvering
your equipment so quick and easy.
Green, Yellow, Black, Blue, Silver, Red
*We are open late so give us a call:
Jim knows more about which part, belt, blades,
small engine, tire chains, seat, or
you need than most anyone you can talk to.
He's one of those guys who has it "All in his head".
If you don't see what you want our our site, please call.
have quite a bit that is not shown on our
web site, and if we
don't have it we might be able to get it for you quickly.
most makes and models of garden tractors, pressure washers, Bobcats,
Skid Steer loaders,
John Deere Gators,
Commercial carpet cleaning equipment, etc.
Jim's Repair/Jim's Tractors offers
Trustworthy Auto and Truck Repair and
Synthetic oil facts and myths
mower emissions amount to less than two percent of the total
emissions produced each year
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Q: I read in one of your answers that if there
is voltage to the center lead of the voltage regulator with the
ignition on, then the regulator is bad. If this is right does it
hold true for a 420 John Deere?
A: Yes that would also be true on an
Onan John Deere 420.
Q: I have a Craftsman 22 hp, Brigg and Stratton engine. It
starts but runs really rough unless you pull the choke out a little.
I am not sure if it is good to run like that. When you idle down it
is almost like the engine goes on and off. You have to let it idle
for 30 seconds before turning it off according to the book, if not
it back fires. The seat safety switch seems okay.
A: Because you have to run at part
choke it sounds to me like you have a carburetor problem. You should
rebuild the carburetor
Q: I've got a John Deere 216
garden tractor which I bought used
from a farmer who apparently collected such things (he had 5 for
sale!. It starts fine since we dropped a new starter and carburetor
kit in it. I've been using it for general work without much problem
except for when the machine gets hot, then the Kohler K341AQS engine
knocks so bad that you wonder if it's about to swallow something
really vital! I let the engine cool down and the problem is gone.
I've changed the oil with appropriate summer-weight oil, and we've
changed the spark plug as well.
What on earth is causing this? I was told to change the points, but
I would have thought improperly gapped or worn points would cause
troubles whether the engine were hot or not. I'm concerned that the
valves may not be operating properly, or perhaps the
piston/rings/etc. are giving me grief. Is an engine overhaul
warranted? Have you any suggestions regarding the problem?
A: It sounds to me like you are getting
carbon glow. Remove the cylinder head and clean up all of the carbon
and put it back together. See if that takes care of it.
Q: I am using a John Deere 430 garden tractor and I want to be
sure the hydro oil is at the correct level. I see a fill tube that
says transmission fluid only on it but how do I check it? Can you
tell me what kind and weight of oil to use for the hydro and the
A: Use automatic transmission Dextron
III car transmission oil. You fill the oil tube by the battery. To
check for the oil level, there is a glass tube on the right rear of
the tractor. It is full anywhere within that level.
Q: I have a John Deere hydro 175 lawn
tractor, it does not charge the
battery, what could be wrong? Can I purchase these parts from you?.
A: You first need to make a test before
ordering out any parts. Locate your voltage rectifier. It should
have 3 wires hooked to it. Take a test light and hook it up to the
center wire on the rectifier and turn the ignition switch on. Your
test light should light up. If it does, that tells you that you need
to get a new rectifier. If it does not light up you have trouble
with the wiring in the tractor.
Q: I have a 1984 John Deere 314 hydro with the Kohler 1
cylinder engine. My problem is the charging system no longer works.
If it had an alternator I'd know what to do! It runs only off the
battery and dies if I disconnect the battery while running.
A: The first thing you need to
check is if you have current with the ignition key on, check the
rectifier (little box) which has 3 wires to it. It will be the
center one. If you have current, it is a good chance that your
rectifier needs to be replaced. If you have no current then you need
to check into the wiring from the ignition switch and do not condemn
Q: I have a Bolens HT20 tractor with a front loader and
rear mower (Woods 59). While moving snow last winter the tractor
just stopped moving. I can push it with no problem. Could I have
broken an axle?? Did not hear any noise when it happened.. Free
A: It sounds like your
hydrostatic transmission should be
O.K. as you lost power immediately. Do you have the posi lock rear
end on that tractor? If you do, did you try locking in the
posi? Then if the tractor moves, that would prove that you have a
Q: I have a John Deere 420 garden tractor that runs great.
The problem is that if the tractor sits for a week it is very hard
to start. I take the breather off and spray ether in the carburetor
and it starts right a way, but dies. I have to keep spraying ether
in the carburetor for about 15 seconds before it will run on it's
own. Once I get it started it runs great, if I turn it off and
restart it, it starts fine but if it sits for along time (a week) I
have the same problem again.
A: A new fuel pump may fix the
problem. If that is not it, replace all of the fuel lines from the
gas tank fuel shut off valve. Then replace the lines from the fuel
shut off valve to the fuel pump. That should take care of it.
Q: I have a Kohler K-341 that knocks. The engine has
plenty of power and doesn't smoke. It starts easy and runs good
except for the knock. I don't know much about the engine but it
looks as if it may have been recently rebuilt. What should be the
first thing that I should do to correct this problem? What is the
logical progression of fixes to correct this problem?
A: If it's recently been rebuilt
my guess is that when it was done the crankshaft was not checked for
being out of round, which means you would have to disassemble the
engine and get it reground or install a new crankshaft and new
connecting rod fitted with the correct size per the crankshaft you
are putting in.
Another possibility is the balance gear bearings could be in very
bad condition and will also cause an engine knock. Then you would
need to replace the balance gears.
Q: I have a John Deere 140 lawn tractor. When I got it,
it would shut off when the battery went dead. Gas had leaked onto
the rectifier and the insulation inside the rectifier had melted. I
repaired the gas leak and was getting the correct AC voltage from
the stator, so I replaced the rectifier. The tractor would shut off
if the battery cable was removed. I found that I was not getting 12
DC volts from the ignition switch to the third wire on the
rectifier. This was due to a bad ignition switch, which I replaced.
Now, I have 28-30 AC volts from the stator and 12 DC volts from the
switch to the rectifier. The tractor will still shut off if a
battery cable is removed. Should it keep running with a battery
cable removed, or is it doing what it is supposed to?
A: Put a voltmeter across the
battery. With the engine at full speed your voltmeter should be
reading between 12 3/4 to 15 volts. If you are in that area, things
are working fine and your battery will stay fully charged. This will
also prove that the charging system will not supply electricity to
the ignition system without the battery.
Q: My John Deere 316 was running well and mowing fine. Suddenly
there was no hydraulics, the deck would not raise, and it had and no
forward or reverse movement of the tractor. The engine was
still running fine. The fluid level was OK, but F and R lever
seems to be harder to move than before. Any ideas as to what to look
for, simplest things first?
A: John Deere has 3 different
316's. If you have the 1978 316 garden tractor is sounds to me like
he sheared the pin on the driveshaft at the transmission.
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Q: My 216 has a "short squeaking sound" when I engage the
clutch. Could it be anything else but the idler pulley?
I use it for towing, etc. only. No mower or other attachments.
A: I think I know what noise you are
talking about. If I'm right, all it is is the belt doing a momentary
slip when letting out the clutch. Wouldn't be anything to worry
Q: I have a Deere 317 garden tractor. It appears that I
have some sort of major problem as of last night. It is only running
on one cylinder and does not sound right. I am going to validate the
plugs and plug wires tonight (it has a new coil) to make sure that
it is nothing obvious and that I have good spark.
It does not leak oil or have any knocking or metal on metal sounds
(which hopefully rules out a block or rod issue.) I am thinking that
maybe it is the rings or the head gasket. It has burned a small
amount of oil since the day that I bought it (used) which is part of
the reason that I suspect that it might be an issue with the rings.
I have a bucket,
blower, tiller, mower deck, and bagger
for this. I really only use the bucket and tiller but I do move a
LOT of dirt around the yard with this. I am right in the middle of
two large landscaping projects with lots of dirt & rock to move so
the timing on this was pretty poor.
A: That engine (KT17) usually
will break a connecting rod and the piston stops up against the
head. It will sit there and run with no knocks with one piston
standing still. Your current engine is really not the best quality,
so if it is bad I wouldn't recommend putting money into it. There
has been a known problem with that engine since it came out in the
John Deere 317 garden tractors.
Most 317's have had their engines replaced already. The tractors are
good quality though. I would replace it with one of the
With the weight difference you will almost think you have power
steering. We will go out of our way to turn this job through
Q: I have a 70's Gravely model 812 with a cracked head,
I have an opportunity to get a 816 Gravely. They have the same frame
and the same drives for their attachments. The 816 has a 16 HP
Kohler engine and trouble with the transmission. Can I meet the 16
HP Kohler to the transmission of the 12 HP Gravely? Or would it be
simpler to fix the transmission on the 816?
A: That Kohler 16 HP should bolt
up to the back of your Gravely 812. The shaft sizes should both be 1
1/8". The gears might be different on the end of the shafts, but
then you could exchange them.
Q: I have a 1979 John Deere 216 rider it has a rear hub
that the splines are stripped out, will any other model hubs fit?
A: The hubs should interchange from a
John Deere 110, 112, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214, and your 216.
Q: I am having problems getting my clutch to engage.
Last summer when I mowed with the tractor, if I ever stopped the
blades, I could never get the clutch to re-engage until after the
mower cooled down. Then it got to where I would be mowing and the
clutch would just disengage and could not be reengaged. Now, the
clutch will not engage at all. The blade clutch light on the dash
illuminates when I engage the PTO switch, but nothing happens. The
switch didn't seem to be acting right so I bought a new switch, but
that didn't change anything.
A: First I would check how many
amps the clutch is drawing and if it is drawing more than 3 amps you
should you replace the electric clutch coil in the PTO clutch. If
you have no amp draw at all the clutch coil could be bad too, or an
open circuit which still means a bad clutch coil. If you find all of
that to be O.K. you should adjust the brake on the PTO clutch.
Q: Will a replacement head for a Kohler will work even
though the hole for the spark plug is a little off from the
A: Both will work fine except for the most power you would
want the style with hole located above the valve.
Q: What is the
output voltage for the alternator on a FC540V Kawasaki engine. Not
the amps but the measurable voltage?
A: You would need to check it with an AC voltmeter not a DC
voltmeter directly off the alternator wires. It should be between 28
to 32 AC volts.
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Q: I am trying to
rebuild a Kohler 10 which tossed a rod. The engine is on the bench,
partially disassembled, which is to say that the crank, cam, etc are
still in place.
When I rotate the crank by hand, the exhaust valve pops open briefly
about halfway up the compression stroke. Is it just bad valve
adjustment or a symptom of a more serious problem?
A: On some Kohler engines this is normal because they
have the ACR (Automatic compression release). After the engine
starts this will go out of operation and the engine would be running
Q: I have a John Deere
216 garden tractor. After it's running for 45 minutes, it dies out,
the battery is drained, and it needs to be recharged. I was told it
could be the stator? How can I check?
A: You would have to unplug the 2 stator wires off of the
rectifier and hook your AC voltmeter, not DC voltmeter, to those 2
wires coming from the stator. You should have a reading of 28 to 32
AC volts. If you get this reading then your stator is in good
condition. If the stator is in good condition, check to see if you
have electricity going to the 3rd wire on the rectifier with the
ignition key on. If you do not have electricity at this location
with the key on, you will need to trace out the wiring coming from
the ignition switch to find why there is no current coming through.
If you do have current there with the key on, then install a new
rectifier and that should fix it.
Q: I have a
John Deere 445, it starts & runs,
but sometimes stalls, or looses rpm's. Where do I start?
A: I would start out by checking if your fuel pump in
the gas tank is working steadily. Also check the wiring to the fuel
Q: I have an older 10 horse
Briggs and Stratton engine on a Dynamark Tractor. I'm having trouble
keeping the engine running. The only way that it runs is if I hold
my hand over the mouth of the carburetor to restrict the air flow.
It run this way but stalls as soon as I remove the hand.
A: A couple of things to try: If you have a fuel pump
on it, check if it is pumping gasoline. 2nd, You might have dirt or
water in your gasoline. Disassemble the carburetor and clean it up
real good. If this does not take care of it you might start checking
your ignition system.
Q: I am having
problems with the PTO clutch on my John Deere 316 garden tractor.
The PTO won't stay engaged. It will run for a few minutes, then stop
spinning (the PTO switch and light are both still on). If I leave
the switch on, it will re-engage periodically, but then stop
spinning in a few minutes again. I have tightened the PTO belt
tension (it needed it), but that didn't solve the problem. Any
A: Your most likely problem is the PTO clutch brake
adjustment which is the 3 self locking nuts that need a 9/16 socket
to adjust up tighter. If this adjustment does not fix the problem
then you will need a new clutch or at least new parts to fix up your
Q: I have just
purchased a Bolens tractor equipped with a Johnson Workhorse front
end loader, The loader seems to be low on hydraulic oil, what kind
of oil does it take? Regular Hydraulic oil? Transmission fluid?
A: You can use hydraulic oil or the red automatic
transmission oil. If you are going to add oil I would find out what
is currently being used in it and use the same thing.
Looking for more Q&A's?
Repowering Garden Tractors
and other equipment
Garden Tractor Attachments
Hydrostatic Transmission Rebuilding
Garden Tractors in general
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