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Small Engine Parts - Lawn Tractor Parts - Tractor Repair

We carry a large selection of new and used parts and have a reliable service department. We keep a good supply of John Deere parts and Briggs and Stratton parts.  Sundstrand hydro transmission rebuilding is available.

We have a good belt inventory and just added a larger selection.  Have you ever wanted to finish mowing your lawn on a Saturday evening but the belt just broke?  Drop by and we will be able to help.  We also carry tires and batteries for Lawn and Garden Equipment.  Shipping can be arranged.

Parts, and Repair Questions and Answers

Carlisle Turf Pro 31X12.00/15 garden tractor tires and wheels.  New - $200 ea
Mule Drive Guard

$44 Mule drive guard

This guard is more than 2 times thicker than the factory part.
For John Deere models 120-140-300-312-314-316-317-318-322-330-332.  

Garden Tractor seatGarden tractor seat bottom sideGarden tractor seat back sideGarden tractor seat measurements
Garden Tractor Seat-$90

Transaxle for John Deere  garden tractors and others
Spicer Brand
John Deere L100, Sabre L1742, Sabre 14.542GS Transaxles -

John Deere Fuel gauge - John Deere Gas Gauge
John Deere Gas Gauge Fuel Gauge and Gas Cap-For John Deere Model 110 - 112 - 140 garden tractors.   Still in the original John Deere box  $38

Garden Tractor tires 23X10.50X12
Garden Tractor Tires 26X12X12

Tri Rib Garden Tractor Tire
400X8 Tri Rib Tire $60 each
Wheel weights - 70 lb cast iron Wheel bearing and cap
Lawn mower belts, automotive belts Lawn and Garden Tractor wheels-lawn mower wheels

John Deere tractor suitcase weights

Wheel Weights
70 lb cast iron -$150-pair

8" Aluminum wheels, hub & cap $70

Automotive and Tractor Belts Small Tractor Wheels

2 link Snow Chains

Suitcase weights
41 lbs each
$45 each

Lawn tractor tire 2 Garden Tractor Tires  

Garden Tractor Tire and Wheel

Gator Tire

Tire 4.10X6
$20 each
480-8 2 tires are strapped together $30 each


Wheel only-no tire $67 each,  Tire is $60 each $120 per tire, Wheel not included  

If you have one hand on a hydro lever you can steer with the other hand.
$15 each
Steering Wheel Knob
We just love these steering wheel knobs, they make maneuvering your equipment so quick and easy.
6 colors:
Green, Yellow, Black, Blue, Silver, Red



*We are open late so give us a call: 1-800-618-8738 or e-mail Jim knows more about which part, belt, blades, small engine, tire chains, seat, or  attachments you need than most anyone you can talk to.  He's one of those guys who has it "All in his head".

If you don't see what you want our our site, please call.  We have quite a bit that is not shown on our web site, and if we don't have it we might be able to get it for you quickly.

Jim repairs and repowers most makes and models of garden tractors, pressure washers, Bobcats, Skid Steer loaders, John Deere Gators, Commercial carpet cleaning equipment, etc
Jim's Repair/Jim's Tractors offers
Trustworthy Auto and Truck Repair and Service

Synthetic oil facts and myths


Lawn mower emissions amount to less than two percent of the total emissions produced each year

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Parts and Service Questions and Answers:

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Q: I read in one of your answers that if there is voltage to the center lead of the voltage regulator with the ignition on, then the regulator is bad. If this is right does it hold true for a 420 John Deere?

A: Yes that would also be true on an Onan John Deere 420.

Q: I have a Craftsman 22 hp, Brigg and Stratton engine. It starts but runs really rough unless you pull the choke out a little. I am not sure if it is good to run like that. When you idle down it is almost like the engine goes on and off. You have to let it idle for 30 seconds before turning it off according to the book, if not it back fires. The seat safety switch seems okay.

A: Because you have to run at part choke it sounds to me like you have a carburetor problem. You should rebuild the carburetor

Q: I've got a John Deere 216 garden tractor which I bought used from a farmer who apparently collected such things (he had 5 for sale!. It starts fine since we dropped a new starter and carburetor kit in it. I've been using it for general work without much problem except for when the machine gets hot, then the Kohler K341AQS engine knocks so bad that you wonder if it's about to swallow something really vital! I let the engine cool down and the problem is gone. I've changed the oil with appropriate summer-weight oil, and we've changed the spark plug as well.

What on earth is causing this? I was told to change the points, but I would have thought improperly gapped or worn points would cause troubles whether the engine were hot or not. I'm concerned that the valves may not be operating properly, or perhaps the piston/rings/etc. are giving me grief. Is an engine overhaul warranted? Have you any suggestions regarding the problem?

A: It sounds to me like you are getting carbon glow. Remove the cylinder head and clean up all of the carbon and put it back together. See if that takes care of it.

Q: I am using a John Deere 430 garden tractor and I want to be sure the hydro oil is at the correct level. I see a fill tube that says transmission fluid only on it but how do I check it? Can you tell me what kind and weight of oil to use for the hydro and the hydraulics?

A: Use automatic transmission Dextron III car transmission oil. You fill the oil tube by the battery. To check for the oil level, there is a glass tube on the right rear of the tractor. It is full anywhere within that level.

Q: I have a John Deere hydro 175 lawn tractor, it does not charge the battery, what could be wrong? Can I purchase these parts from you?.

A: You first need to make a test before ordering out any parts. Locate your voltage rectifier. It should have 3 wires hooked to it. Take a test light and hook it up to the center wire on the rectifier and turn the ignition switch on. Your test light should light up. If it does, that tells you that you need to get a new rectifier. If it does not light up you have trouble with the wiring in the tractor.

Q:  I have a 1984 John Deere 314 hydro with the Kohler 1 cylinder engine. My problem is the charging system no longer works. If it had an alternator I'd know what to do! It runs only off the battery and dies if I disconnect the battery while running.

A:  The first thing you need to check is if you have current with the ignition key on, check the rectifier (little box) which has 3 wires to it. It will be the center one. If you have current, it is a good chance that your rectifier needs to be replaced. If you have no current then you need to check into the wiring from the ignition switch and do not condemn the rectifier.

Q:  I have a Bolens HT20 tractor with a front loader and rear mower (Woods 59). While moving snow last winter the tractor just stopped moving. I can push it with no problem. Could I have broken an axle?? Did not hear any noise when it happened.. Free wheeling valve?

A:  It sounds like your hydrostatic transmission should be O.K. as you lost power immediately. Do you have the posi lock rear end on that tractor?  If you do, did you try locking in the posi? Then if the tractor moves, that would prove that you have a broken axle.

Q:  I have a John Deere 420 garden tractor that runs great. The problem is that if the tractor sits for a week it is very hard to start. I take the breather off and spray ether in the carburetor and it starts right a way, but dies. I have to keep spraying ether in the carburetor for about 15 seconds before it will run on it's own. Once I get it started it runs great, if I turn it off and restart it, it starts fine but if it sits for along time (a week) I have the same problem again.

A:  A new fuel pump may fix the problem. If that is not it, replace all of the fuel lines from the gas tank fuel shut off valve. Then replace the lines from the fuel shut off valve to the fuel pump. That should take care of it.

Q:  I have a Kohler K-341 that knocks. The engine has plenty of power and doesn't smoke. It starts easy and runs good except for the knock. I don't know much about the engine but it looks as if it may have been recently rebuilt. What should be the first thing that I should do to correct this problem? What is the logical progression of fixes to correct this problem?

A:  If it's recently been rebuilt my guess is that when it was done the crankshaft was not checked for being out of round, which means you would have to disassemble the engine and get it reground or install a new crankshaft and new connecting rod fitted with the correct size per the crankshaft you are putting in.

Another possibility is the balance gear bearings could be in very bad condition and will also cause an engine knock. Then you would need to replace the balance gears.

Q:  I have a John Deere 140 lawn tractor. When I got it, it would shut off when the battery went dead. Gas had leaked onto the rectifier and the insulation inside the rectifier had melted. I repaired the gas leak and was getting the correct AC voltage from the stator, so I replaced the rectifier. The tractor would shut off if the battery cable was removed. I found that I was not getting 12 DC volts from the ignition switch to the third wire on the rectifier. This was due to a bad ignition switch, which I replaced. Now, I have 28-30 AC volts from the stator and 12 DC volts from the switch to the rectifier. The tractor will still shut off if a battery cable is removed. Should it keep running with a battery cable removed, or is it doing what it is supposed to?

A:  Put a voltmeter across the battery. With the engine at full speed your voltmeter should be reading between 12 3/4 to 15 volts. If you are in that area, things are working fine and your battery will stay fully charged. This will also prove that the charging system will not supply electricity to the ignition system without the battery.

Q:  My John Deere 316 was running well and mowing fine. Suddenly there was no hydraulics, the deck would not raise, and it had and no forward or reverse movement of the tractor.  The engine was still running fine.  The fluid level was OK, but F and R lever seems to be harder to move than before. Any ideas as to what to look for, simplest things first?

A:  John Deere has 3 different 316's. If you have the 1978 316 garden tractor is sounds to me like he sheared the pin on the driveshaft at the transmission.

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Q:  My 216 has a "short squeaking sound" when I engage the clutch.  Could it be anything else but the idler pulley?  I use it for towing, etc. only. No mower or other attachments.

A:  I think I know what noise you are talking about. If I'm right, all it is is the belt doing a momentary slip when letting out the clutch. Wouldn't be anything to worry about.

Q:  I have a Deere 317 garden tractor. It appears that I have some sort of major problem as of last night. It is only running on one cylinder and does not sound right. I am going to validate the plugs and plug wires tonight (it has a new coil) to make sure that it is nothing obvious and that I have good spark.

It does not leak oil or have any knocking or metal on metal sounds (which hopefully rules out a block or rod issue.) I am thinking that maybe it is the rings or the head gasket. It has burned a small amount of oil since the day that I bought it (used) which is part of the reason that I suspect that it might be an issue with the rings.

I have a bucket, blower, tiller, mower deck, and bagger for this. I really only use the bucket and tiller but I do move a LOT of dirt around the yard with this. I am right in the middle of two large landscaping projects with lots of dirt & rock to move so the timing on this was pretty poor.

A:  That engine (KT17) usually will break a connecting rod and the piston stops up against the head. It will sit there and run with no knocks with one piston standing still. Your current engine is really not the best quality, so if it is bad I wouldn't recommend putting money into it. There has been a known problem with that engine since it came out in the John Deere 317 garden tractors.  Most 317's have had their engines replaced already. The tractors are good quality though. I would replace it with one of the Vanguard engines. With the weight difference you will almost think you have power steering. We will go out of our way to turn this job through quickly.

Q:  I have a 70's Gravely model 812 with a cracked head, I have an opportunity to get a 816 Gravely. They have the same frame and the same drives for their attachments. The 816 has a 16 HP Kohler engine and trouble with the transmission. Can I meet the 16 HP Kohler to the transmission of the 12 HP Gravely? Or would it be simpler to fix the transmission on the 816?

A:  That Kohler 16 HP should bolt up to the back of your Gravely 812. The shaft sizes should both be 1 1/8". The gears might be different on the end of the shafts, but then you could exchange them.

Q:  I have a 1979 John Deere 216 rider it has a rear hub that the splines are stripped out, will any other model hubs fit?

A:  The hubs should interchange from a John Deere 110, 112, 200, 208, 210, 212, 214, and your 216.

Q:  I am having problems getting my clutch to engage. Last summer when I mowed with the tractor, if I ever stopped the blades, I could never get the clutch to re-engage until after the mower cooled down. Then it got to where I would be mowing and the clutch would just disengage and could not be reengaged. Now, the clutch will not engage at all. The blade clutch light on the dash illuminates when I engage the PTO switch, but nothing happens. The switch didn't seem to be acting right so I bought a new switch, but that didn't change anything.

A:  First I would check how many amps the clutch is drawing and if it is drawing more than 3 amps you should you replace the electric clutch coil in the PTO clutch. If you have no amp draw at all the clutch coil could be bad too, or an open circuit which still means a bad clutch coil. If you find all of that to be O.K. you should adjust the brake on the PTO clutch.

Q:  Will a replacement head for a Kohler will work even though the hole for the spark plug is a little off from the original?

A:  Both will work fine except for the most power you would want the style with hole located above the valve.

Q:  What is the output voltage for the alternator on a FC540V Kawasaki engine. Not the amps but the measurable voltage?

A:  You would need to check it with an AC voltmeter not a DC voltmeter directly off the alternator wires. It should be between 28 to 32 AC volts.

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Q:  I am trying to rebuild a Kohler 10 which tossed a rod. The engine is on the bench, partially disassembled, which is to say that the crank, cam, etc are still in place.

When I rotate the crank by hand, the exhaust valve pops open briefly about halfway up the compression stroke. Is it just bad valve adjustment or a symptom of a more serious problem?

A:  On some Kohler engines this is normal because they have the ACR (Automatic compression release). After the engine starts this will go out of operation and the engine would be running fine.

Q:  I have a John Deere 216 garden tractor. After it's running for 45 minutes, it dies out, the battery is drained, and it needs to be recharged. I was told it could be the stator? How can I check?

A:  You would have to unplug the 2 stator wires off of the rectifier and hook your AC voltmeter, not DC voltmeter, to those 2 wires coming from the stator. You should have a reading of 28 to 32 AC volts. If you get this reading then your stator is in good condition. If the stator is in good condition, check to see if you have electricity going to the 3rd wire on the rectifier with the ignition key on. If you do not have electricity at this location with the key on, you will need to trace out the wiring coming from the ignition switch to find why there is no current coming through. If you do have current there with the key on, then install a new rectifier and that should fix it.

Q:  I have a John Deere 445, it starts & runs, but sometimes stalls, or looses rpm's. Where do I start?

A:  I would start out by checking if your fuel pump in the gas tank is working steadily. Also check the wiring to the fuel pump.

Q:  I have an older 10 horse Briggs and Stratton engine on a Dynamark Tractor. I'm having trouble keeping the engine running. The only way that it runs is if I hold my hand over the mouth of the carburetor to restrict the air flow. It run this way but stalls as soon as I remove the hand.

A:  A couple of things to try: If you have a fuel pump on it, check if it is pumping gasoline. 2nd, You might have dirt or water in your gasoline. Disassemble the carburetor and clean it up real good. If this does not take care of it you might start checking your ignition system.

Q:  I am having problems with the PTO clutch on my John Deere 316 garden tractor. The PTO won't stay engaged. It will run for a few minutes, then stop spinning (the PTO switch and light are both still on). If I leave the switch on, it will re-engage periodically, but then stop spinning in a few minutes again. I have tightened the PTO belt tension (it needed it), but that didn't solve the problem. Any ideas?

A:  Your most likely problem is the PTO clutch brake adjustment which is the 3 self locking nuts that need a 9/16 socket to adjust up tighter. If this adjustment does not fix the problem then you will need a new clutch or at least new parts to fix up your old clutch.

Q:  I have just purchased a Bolens tractor equipped with a Johnson Workhorse front end loader, The loader seems to be low on hydraulic oil, what kind of oil does it take? Regular Hydraulic oil? Transmission fluid?

A:  You can use hydraulic oil or the red automatic transmission oil. If you are going to add oil I would find out what is currently being used in it and use the same thing.

Looking for more Q&A's? 

Repowering Garden Tractors and other equipment
Garden Tractor Attachments
Hydrostatic Transmission Rebuilding
Garden Tractors in general

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